Understanding acne marks and acne scars

Before considering how acne marks and scars form and what we can do to get rid of them, let’s quickly recap what is acne and why it occurs.

What Causes Acne?

Acne is a common skin condition affecting hair follicles, caused by excessive sebum production (hyperseborrhea) and poor-quality sebum (dysseborrhea). As the skin thickens, trapped sebum leads to clogged pores, known as comedones. The bacteria Cutibacterium acnes thrive in this sebum buildup, and once inflammation occurs, these clogged pores can develop into painful red spots.


Acne lesions can vary in severity and typically appear on the face, chest, and back, ranging from blackheads to deeply inflamed cysts.

Discover more about the causes of acne

What's the difference between acne marks and acne scars?

Acne marks are temporary discolorations that can fade on their own, although it may take several months. In contrast, acne scars represent permanent skin damage that won’t go away without treatment.

 

  • Isabelle Baratte, Dermatologist

    The traces of pimples are recent red marks that will disappear, except if they’re exposed to the sun, in which case they can turn brown. It’s therefore important to protect the marks with sunscreen. These coloured marks will fade by themselves, although this may take several weeks. Acne scars are different. They are permanent depressed or raised marks. However, they can be reduced through dermatological means, such as peelings, lasers and dermabrasion. A dermatologist must be consulted, and the scars only treated once the acne has been completely cured.
     Dr Isabelle Baratte, dermatologist.

What are acne marks and how can you get rid of them?

Acne lesions can leave behind marks even after the inflammation has subsided. The skin around these lesions may change color (discoloration), resulting in purple, red, or brown marks that can gradually fade on their own, although this process may take time.

Here are some simple steps to help reduce the appearance of acne marks:

  • Avoid touching your face frequently or using heavy makeup—opt for non-comedogenic products instead.
  • Use oil-free sunscreen to help prevent further discoloration/hyperpigmentation.
  • Refrain from squeezing pimples, blackheads, and whiteheads.

 

Additionally, targeted skincare products like Sébium Kerato+ can help reduce acne marks. This moisturising gel formula acts on mild to moderate acne to help reduce pimple, marks & imperfections (-18.9% acne volume in two days and -41.1% after a month*) and acne marks (-19.6% in pigment spots and marks in two days, -36.2% after a month*).

 

*Source : Use test under dermatological control performed on 33 subjects aged 18-42 with combination, oily or acne-prone skin – Eurofins No. 20E5071

Touching face

Avoid touching your face frequently or using heavy makeup—opt for non-comedogenic products instead.

Sunscreen

Use oil-free sunscreen to help prevent further discoloration/hyperpigmentation.

Pimples

Refrain from squeezing pimples, blackheads, and whiteheads.

What are acne scars?

Acne scars occur when an acne lesion penetrates deeply into the skin, causing damage to the surrounding tissues. These scars can vary in appearance and require different types of treatment to address them.

Depressed acne scars 

Atrophic or depressed acne scars are the most common type found on the face. They are usually found below the surrounding skin and occur when the body fails to produce enough collagen during the healing process. There are three distinct types of these scars.

These wide, U-shaped scars have sharp edges. The shallower they are, the better they respond to skin resurfacing treatments. 

These are narrow, V-shaped scars that sometimes appear as small round or oval holes, rather like a chickenpox scar. They often are difficult to treat because they go deep under the surface of the skin.

These wide depressions usually have rounded edges and an irregular, rolling appearance.

Before beginning to treat acne scars, it is important to bear three things in mind.
 

  • You need to get rid of your acne first, as new breakouts can create new acne scars. Furthermore, some acne scar treatments are not compatible with acne medication.  

 

  • Your skin tone may have an impact on the type of treatment and its efficacy. For example, deeper skin laser treatments may lead to more scarring and pigmentation for darker skin types.

 

  • Always consult a dermatologist or healthcare professional to determine the most appropriate treatment. 

Often found in acne-products, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) can make acne scars less noticeable. The mild acid acts as an exfoliator that removes the outer layer of the skin and any discoloration or roughness.

Dermatologist-performed lactic acid peels can improve your skin texture, appearance, and pigmentation and lighten acne scars. You can also find lots of peels, serums, and ointments with lactic acid in pharmacies.

Topical retinoids are another acne treatment that can reduce discoloration and make scars less noticeable. Remember to wear sunscreen, as retinoids make the skin more sensitive to the sun. 

Salicylic acid clears pores, reduces swelling and redness, and exfoliates the skin when applied topically. 

Dermabrasion is a type of surgical skin planing. Healthcare professionals remove the top layer of your skin. Although you also find microdermabrasion kits to do at home.

At-home or dermatologist-applied chemical peels feature a strong acid that removes the top layer of the skin to reduce deeper scars. 

The healthcare professional uses a laser to remove the top layer of the skin, which usually heals faster than following other resurfacing treatments.

Fillers (such as hyaluronic acid, poly-L-lactic acid, and body fat) are injected under the surface of the skin to plump and smooth out depressed scars. Most last between 6 and 18 months, but some are permanent.

The needles on a small handheld roller or “pen” puncture the surface of the numbed skin. As the skin heals, it produces collagen

Sébium Gel moussant actif

1% Glycolic acid + 1.8% Salicylic acid
Effectively unclogs pores and helps to reduce acne & blackheads

Acne-prone skin Combination to oily skin

Sébium Kerato+

Anti-acne moisturising gel cream

Acne-prone skin

Photoderm Aquafluide SPF50+

Very high sun protection as light as water, with a dry touch finish.

Sensitive skin